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There are
many more examples
of my work in the
"gallery" pages.
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BONE SADDLES |
| Bone is the most common and least expensive aftermarket
natural material used for saddles. It is denser than any of the
synthetic materials and in nearly all cases displays an immediate,
noticeable difference after installation. Most of the bone used
in today’s guitar saddles comes from Chinese cows or ox.
Is a Chinese cow or ox
better than American ones? Probably not, but their bones are cheaper.
Additionally, there is no difference between the final product
whether the bone came from one animal or the other. NO
animals are unnecessarily murdered
just for the purpose of anyone’s guitars. These are simply
the byproducts of the beef industry. Nearly every guitar
in the higher price range ($2000.00 and up) will come with a bone
saddle and nut as the standard material. As I mentioned in
the general information page, rarely if ever,
will you find ANY hand made guitars in the extreme price ranges
that do not come equipped with high quality bone components.
It is unquestionably the standard in that section of the
industry. Bone saddles are a bleached white color, and can occasionally
have some darker “speckling” in the grain. Most saddles can also be
ordered in what is known vintage bone. The only difference
between this and regular bone is the vintage bone is dyed to a
"baby poop" yellow-brown color to give it an aged or vintage
look.
Bone is usually the first step people choose in an aftermarket
saddle, as it is relatively inexpensive, and offers significant
improvement over factory-installed components. Bone increases
clarity and sustain, provides better overtones, and provides a better
high to low end balance. It provides a much more “focused”
high end and punchier low end, and is not at all shrill like
some plastic saddles render the guitar. Additionally, bone will long outlast
the factory installed plastic saddles.
All the saddles I carry are listed on the
pricing/ordering page. If
yours is not listed, I can copy it (in nearly every case) out of
any of these materials if you can send it in.
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 (vintage
bone) |
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New bone long saddle made from hacked up
original. Definitely an improvement! |
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Alvarez bone saddle copied from original |
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Click on select images to
see an
enlarged view. |
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WEST AFRICAN HARD IVORY
SADDLES |
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This is the
hardest material that falls into the usable spectrum of
densities for an acoustic guitar and is the ultimate material
for maximizing the harmonic and overtone content of the
instrument. For this reason, West African hard ivory is
by far the most popular material used by fingerstyle players
or those who simply want the best high frequency response and
clarity. Sonically,
it is the same as the fossilized walrus ivory, although being
slightly harder, it is somewhat better for wear and tear.
Personally, I feel this is one of the best natural materials I
have used for guitar parts and the material I use in nearly all
my personal instruments.
It's
important to note that this material is significantly different than the regular
elephant ivory listed above. Elephant
Ivory or "soft ivory" makes up a vast majority of popular usage,
while hard ivory is far more rare and used for tactile products such as
chess pieces or other crafts that are often hand-held.
A note
about your nuts: Because of its hardness, this is
unquestionably the
BEST material I have ever come across for nuts and will
endure the years of wear and tear this component normally
experiences. As with all the nuts I make, they come oversized
with the string slots uncut and need to be installed by your
local luthier or qualified technician, unless you have
experience changing them..
Click on either image to
see an
enlarged view.
BRIDGE PINS: Because of the rarity of hard ivory, as
well as the fact that sonically speaking there is no discernable
difference between the ivories in terms of pin material, all the
elephant pins are made from the soft ivory. I do however
keep a small inventory of W. African pins at all times.
They are visually differ from soft ivory pins in that they have
a more elegant grain.
HISTORY and COOL INFORMATION:
Hard Ivory came from smaller
animals that lived in Western Africa and are referred to as
“Forest Elephants.” The tusks are smaller, lighter in
color and are measurably more dense than standard elephant
tusks.
The forest elephants of Congo
and Liberia had very strict harvesting controls imposed by their
respective governments,
eliminating nearly all of the poaching. This is one reason
for the extreme rarity of this ivory. Unlike
other areas of Africa, they were overlooked by hunters as
potential “trophy elephants” because of the diminutive size of
their tusks. Additionally, if these elephants were legally
hunted for any purpose, one tusk was allowed to be retained by
the permit holder, the other was required to be turned into the
government. For this reason it is nearly impossible to find
these tusks in pairs, which adds to its rarity. Much of
this material I currently have came from tusks which were
exchanged as gifts (legally) between U.S. and African dignitaries in the
early 20th century, and eventually sold at estate sales.
As with the soft elephant ivory, ALL the material I
purchase is legally obtained through licensed ivory dealers and
in keeping with all standing laws.
West African Hard Ivory nut on a 1981 Flying V
Reminder.... I cannot
legally ship Elephant Ivory outside of the United States!
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FOSSILIZED WALRUS IVORY, ELEPHANT and BONE
BRIDGE PINS |
| There
are a lot of myths and arguments about the sonic effectiveness
of the pins. Here's the truth. On some
guitars, the pins have produced definable, measurable and
unquestionable acoustic advantages. On others the
results showed negligible difference. Most customers find
"some" difference. In any case, you're putting a better
quality, longer lasting, better looking component in your
guitar. The most commonly found attribute of the pins is
increased sustain.
I always try to keep the most
popular sizes in stock with as many inlay options as possible,
but it's impossible for me to carry every combination. The pins
are most commonly carried in 3mm or 4mm ebony, abalone, faux
tortoise or NO inlay I also stock some custom
double-inlays as well.
BONE BRIDGE PINS:
A lower cost
alternative to their ivory counterpart, although sonically
speaking, they are identical. They are fairly
unassuming in appearance, but still offer a nice
improvement over factory-installed plastic or wood pins.
I also make these in a "vintage
dyed" appearance. These pins spend about a week in a dye
that results in a pin that simply looks old. It's hard to
make thousands of dyed pins that come out looking exactly the
same, so there is variation between the sets.. from gently
dyed, to dark and speckled and looking VERY old. Everyone
likes something a little different so I'll be happy to let you
know what I have available at the time, and send any pictures of
specific sets if needed.
There are always sets
that don't make the final cut in appearance (both non-dyed and
dyed), and I keep them aside and discounted as "factory
seconds." There are usually a number of size 1 and size 2A
pin sets in stock, and I'll be happy to let you know what's
available, as it changes constantly. This is a convenient
way to give some fully functional, ugly ducklings a home and
save some $$!
ELEPHANT
IVORY PINS: Comes
only in the standard creme
color, the standard coloration of nearly all elephant ivory.
WEST AFRICAN
HARD IVORY PINS: Nicer
grain than the elephant, same standard creme color. I
normally have a limited number of these on hand in standardized
sizes.
FOSSILIZED WALRUS
IVORY PINS: The Walrus pins come
in a multitude of beautiful colors and patterns. I
keep photographs of every set in stock, but do not keep them listed
on this site as they come and go so frequently. Please let
me know, and I will send you any pictures you need.. tell
me what size too, so I send you the right pictures!
One thing to keep in mind with this material is each set is
unique and they come in MANY colors and variations. I get
a lot of requests for matching saddles, nuts, endpins, etc.
It's very difficult to always accommodate this, but I will do
the best I can to get you the best match possible.
BUFFALO HORN BRIDGE PINS:
Buffalo horn pins are more dense than ebony or plastic pins, but
not as dense as bone or ivory. Buffalo horn pins are great
for someone who really does not want to change the appearance of
a guitar normally equipped with ebony pins, in that the buffalo
horn is black. You probably won't find a big sonic
difference, but they will outlast factory installed components,
and look darn nice as well. Contrary to popular belief,
these pins are not "bowling ball" black. They are indeed
black, but have wisps of lighter grain through portions of the
material giving it a very natural look.
*A note about bridge pin fit and proper sizing!
My pins are sized for the maximum size found to fit your
guitar. I have to size the pins in this manner as all
instruments are slightly different. These may require some sanding of a few
thousandths along the stem
to fit them perfectly to your pin holes. Reaming the
pinholes to fit the pins is for some, a better option, and
results in the best fit.
Bridge
pins come in billions of sizes. Well, it's not that bad,
but there are quite a few and unfortunately I can't carry that
many sizes in stock. Luckily, many of the larger
manufacturers such as Taylor, and Martin use a standard size
bridge pin. Some of the smaller makers do as well.
Some manufacturers use different size pins on the same guitars.
For this reason, I have developed as best I can, a sizing chart
for many manufacturers as shown below.
Click on any of the images
below
to see an
enlarged view
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Bone Bridge Pins |
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Double Inlay, Ebony/Abalone
Double inlay, Faux Tortoise/Abalone |
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3mm abalone
3mm faux tortoise
3mm ebony |
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4mm abalone
4mm faux tortoise
4mm ebony |
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TRADITIONAL
DYED BONE PINS |
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- These are
designed to replicate a naturally aged pin. Designed to
look OLD!
- Available in ebony, abalone faux tortoise or NO inlay,
Size 1, 1T, 1.3T & 2A
- Call or email for pics... the inventory changes
constantly!
- Prices range from $25 - $37
Sorry...no custom sizes! |
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UNIQUELY
DYED BONE PINS |
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- These
are all one-of sets. Designed to look unique and/or
match up to a top-color!
- Three basic color patterns: Amber, Brown & Red
- Available in ebony, abalone or NO inlay,
Size 1, 1T, 1.3T & 2A
- Call or email for pics... the inventory changes
constantly!
- Prices range from $25 - $45
Sorry...no custom sizes!
- More info and pics can be found here:
DYED
PIN PAGE
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Amber
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Brown
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Red
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Elephant
& W. African Hard Ivory Bridge Pins |
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Fossilized Walrus Ivory Bridge Pins |
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Premium
dark walrus pins used by Jim Olson for a number of his beautiful
instruments |
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Buffalo Horn Bridge Pins |
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Here are some helpful sizing &
application charts: |
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BRIDGE PIN SIZES
& DIMENSIONS |
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Size |
Taper angle |
Underskirt diameter |
Slotted? |
Notes |
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1 |
3 Degree |
.210" |
Yes |
Can use 1T for these guitars |
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1T |
3 Degree |
.210" |
Yes |
Same as size 1 but with slot cut
through skirt |
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1.3T |
3 Degree |
.203" |
Yes |
Round head design, slot cut through
skirt |
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2A |
5 Degree |
.220" |
Yes |
Unslotted available for Martin
modification |
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2C |
5 Degree |
.215" |
Yes |
Sits lower on most Martins |
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4.2C |
5 Degree |
.223" |
No |
.223" for Bourgeois and Collings |
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BRIDGE PIN
APPLICATIONS |
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Guitar |
Pin Size(s) Used |
Notes |
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Alvarez |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
| Avalon |
Size 1 |
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| Blueridge |
Size 1T or 1.3T |
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| Bourgeois |
Size 4.2C |
Normally cut to .223" underskirt to
match manufacturers pin |
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Breedlove |
Size 1.3T |
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Collings after 2002 |
Size 4.2C |
Normally cut to .223" underskirt to
match manufacturers pin |
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Collings before 2002 |
Size 1 |
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| Epiphone |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below. |
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Fender |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
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Gibson |
Size 1T, 1.3T, or 2A |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below. |
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Goodall |
Size 1 |
Underskirt is normally about .205"
A size 1 can be fit, although sometimes a 1.3T will work fine
depending on guitar |
| Guild |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
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Huss & Dalton |
Size 1.3T |
Occasionally I'll find a size 1T on
these, but not all that often. |
| Ibanez |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
| Kronbauer |
Size 1 |
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Larrivee |
Size 1 |
You can also use a size 1T |
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Martin after 1994 |
Size 2A |
Will require some degree of
fitting, particularly on newer models. Pins stick up from
factory... so do mine. |
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Martin before 1994 |
Size 1 |
On ANY old Martin, it's best to
check first.. many of these guitars have been modified
over the years |
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Maton |
Size 1.3T |
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| Morgan |
Size 1 |
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| Olson |
Size 1 |
Underskirt is normally about .205"
A size 1 can be fit, although sometimes a 1.3 will work fine
depending on guitar |
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Santa Cruz |
Size 1 |
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Seagull |
Size 1T or 1.3T |
Newer models work better with the
size 1T. Size 1.3T otherwise |
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Tacoma |
Size 1T |
Same as a size 1, but with the
string slot cut through the skirt |
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Takamine |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
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Taylor |
Size 1 |
You can also use a size 1T |
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Washburn |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
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What size pin do I need?
How do I measure them? |
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Good Question!
Many guitars, as listed in the above chart use a standard size
pin. In that case, life is good. On the other hand,
many manufacturers use varying sizes of pin, and often
order pins in bulk, simply fitting what they get to the
instrument.
In this case we
need two points of information to get you the correct pin, or
make you a custom size if necessary. To take measurements
accurate enough for a correct fit, you'll really need a dial or
digital caliper for step 2 of this!
1. Is the
pin slotted and does the slot continue through the skirt or stop
below it?
2. Measure
your pin at the following two locations shown in the diagram.
As mentioned above, it is IMPORTANT that these measurements be done
with a dial/digital caliper, or other device that will give you the dimension in decimal
form to the thousandth (.210" for example).
Measure in the two places indicated, the lower measurement
exactly .750" (3/4") below the top. This will give us the size of the pin as well as the ability do
some math and figure out the taper angle.
Lastly, PLEASE
ensure your measurements are correct ! If in doubt, it's
always best to make them slightly oversized and fit them to the
guitar. |
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NUTS |
| I can manufacture nuts out of any of the abovementioned materials.
In nearly all cases, the effectiveness of the nut in changing the
sonic qualities of your instrument is negligible, although there are certainly a number
of circumstances in which you may want to install a new nut on your
guitar. As I have pointed out in other areas of this website,
it is my strong recommendation to have your nut installed by an experienced
technician or luthier! Installation of a nut requires a certain
degree of experience as well as specialized tools. Even if I construct
an EXACT duplicate of the factory-installed nut on your guitar,
there will still be a greater degree of “finish work” as compared
with the saddle. Nuts come with the final shaping done, but
oversized and with the string slots uncut. |
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