There are many more examples of my work in the "gallery" pages.

Bone saddles are a bleached white color, and can occasionally have some darker “speckling” in the grain. Most saddles can also be ordered in what is known vintage bone.  The only difference between this and regular bone is the vintage bone is dyed to a "baby poop" yellow-brown color to give it an aged or vintage look. 

Bone is usually the first step people choose in an aftermarket saddle, as it is relatively inexpensive, and offers significant improvement over factory-installed components.  Bone increases clarity and sustain, provides better overtones, and provides a better high to low end balance.  It provides a much more “focused” high end and punchier low end,  and is not at all shrill like some plastic saddles render the guitar.  Additionally, bone will long outlast the factory installed plastic saddles.

All the saddles I carry are listed on the pricing/ordering page.  If yours is not listed, I can copy it (in nearly every case) out of any of these materials if you can send it in.

Reminder.... I cannot legally ship Elephant Ivory outside of the United States!

This is the hardest material that falls into the usable spectrum of densities for an acoustic guitar.  This is the material to best maximize the harmonic and overtone content of the instrument.  Most of my fingerstyle customers prefer this type of ivory.  Sonically, it is virtually identical to the walrus ivory, although being slightly harder, it is somewhat better for wear and tear.

It's important to note that this material is significantly different than the regular elephant ivory listed above.  Elephant Ivory or "soft ivory" makes up a vast majority of popular usage, while hard ivory is far more rare and used for tactile products such as chess pieces or other crafts that are often hand-held.

A note about your nuts:    Because of its hardness, this is unquestionably the BEST material I have ever come across for nuts and will endure the years of wear and tear this component normally experiences.  As with all the nuts I make, they come oversized with the string slots uncut and need to be installed by your local luthier or qualified technician, unless you have experience changing them..

Click on either image to see an enlarged view.

Fossilized walrus ivory is harvested from tusks belonging to LONG dead walrus’ found in Alaska.  These finds are estimated to be anywhere between 200 to potentially thousands of years.  No modern animals are harmed to procure this material. The fact that FWI is more expensive than other materials is due only to the fact that it is less abundant and someone has to go on a pretty good hike to dig it up.  Unlike elephant ivory, the entire walrus tusk can be used.   The use of different parts of the tusk, along with the fact that a tusk will develop pigmentation depending on where, how long and what it is buried with, results in dramatic patterns, and significant color and pattern differences within each individual piece. 

With a density approximately 25% greater than bone, it provides richer overtone and harmonic content as well as better bass response and sustain.  The walrus renders the instrument bright and lively, but exceptionally focused.  The high-end notes, although aggressive, still ring out with superb clarity and definition.  Walrus has proven to be the definitive choice for the fingerstyle player, although it is well-suited for use in any style.

The standard color my FWI comes in for saddles and nuts is an off-white color as shown below. 

Standard Color

FOSSILIZED WALRUS IVORY, ELEPHANT and BONE

BRIDGE PINS

I always try to keep the most popular sizes in stock with as many inlay options as possible, but it's impossible for me to carry every combination.  The pins are most commonly carried in 3mm or 4mm ebony, abalone, faux tortoise or NO inlay   I also stock some custom double-inlays as well. 

BONE BRIDGE PINS:   A lower cost alternative to their ivory counterpart, although sonically speaking, they are identical. They are fairly unassuming in appearance, but still offer a nice improvement over factory-installed plastic or wood pins.

I also make these in a "vintage dyed" appearance.  These pins spend about a week in a dye that results in a pin that simply looks old.  It's hard to make thousands of dyed pins that come out looking exactly the same, so there is variation between the sets..  from gently dyed, to dark and speckled and looking VERY old.  Everyone likes something a little different so I'll be happy to let you know what I have available at the time, and send any pictures of specific sets if needed.

There are always sets that don't make the final cut in appearance (both non-dyed and dyed), and I keep them aside and discounted as "factory seconds."  There are usually a number of size 1 and size 2A pin sets in stock, and I'll be happy to let you know what's available, as it changes constantly.  This is a convenient way to give some fully functional, ugly ducklings a home and save some $$!

ELEPHANT IVORY PINS:  Comes only in the standard creme color, the standard coloration of nearly all elephant ivory. 

WEST AFRICAN HARD IVORY PINS:  Nicer grain than the elephant, same standard creme color.  I normally have a limited number of these on hand in standardized sizes. 

FOSSILIZED WALRUS IVORY PINS:   The Walrus pins come in a multitude of beautiful colors and patterns.  I keep photographs of every set in stock, but do not keep them listed on this site as they come and go so frequently.  Please let me know, and I will send you any pictures you need..  tell me what size too, so I send you the right pictures!   One thing to keep in mind with this material is each set is unique and they come in MANY colors and variations.  I get a lot of requests for matching saddles, nuts, endpins, etc.   It's very difficult to always accommodate this, but I will do the best I can to get you the best match possible.   

BUFFALO HORN BRIDGE PINS:   Buffalo horn pins are more dense than ebony or plastic pins, but not as dense as bone or ivory.  Buffalo horn pins are great for someone who really does not want to change the appearance of a guitar normally equipped with ebony pins, in that the buffalo horn is black.  You probably won't find a big sonic difference, but they will outlast factory installed components, and look darn nice as well.  Contrary to popular belief, these pins are not "bowling ball" black.  They are indeed black, but have wisps of lighter grain through portions of the material giving it a very natural look.   Buffalo pins are available in size 1, 2A & 4.2c only.

*A note about bridge pin fit and proper sizing!

My pins are sized for the maximum size found to fit your guitar.  I have to size the pins in this manner as all instruments are slightly different.  These may require some sanding of a few thousandths along the stem to fit them perfectly to your pin holes.  Reaming the pinholes to fit the pins is for some, a better option, and results in the best fit.  

Bridge pins come in billions of sizes.  Well, it's not that bad, but there are quite a few and unfortunately I can't carry that many sizes in stock.  Luckily, many of the larger manufacturers such as Taylor, and Martin use a standard size bridge pin.  Some of the smaller makers do as well.  Some manufacturers use different size pins on the same guitars.  For this reason, I have developed as best I can, a sizing chart for many manufacturers as shown below. 

Click on any of the images below to see an enlarged view

size 1 and 2A only

Elephant Ivory Bridge Pins

Walrus Ivory Bridge Pins

Here are some helpful sizing & application charts:

Good Question!  Many guitars, as listed in the above chart use a standard size pin.  In that case, life is good.  On the other hand,  many manufacturers use varying sizes of pin, and often order pins in bulk, simply fitting what they get to the instrument. 

In this case we need two points of information to get you the correct pin, or make you a custom size if necessary.  To take measurements accurate enough for a correct fit, you'll really need a dial or digital caliper for step 2 of this!

1.  Is the pin slotted and does the slot continue through the skirt or stop below it?

2.  Measure your pin at the following two locations shown in the diagram.  As mentioned above, it is IMPORTANT that these measurements be done with a dial/digital caliper, or other device that will give you the dimension in decimal form to the thousandth  (.210" for example).   Measure in the two places indicated, the lower measurement exactly .750" (3/4") below the top.  This will give us the size of the pin as well as the ability do some math and figure out the taper angle.

Lastly, PLEASE ensure your measurements are correct !  If in doubt, it's always best to make them slightly oversized and fit them to the guitar. 

I carry the standard, 5 degree tapered endpins (.310" underskirt diameter) and strap buttons in  elephant and walrus ivory as well as a limited selection in bone.  I have a number of inlay selections for each material, and current photographs of the elephant or walrus sets are always on hand for your review. 

Bone endpins

Ivory picks provide a very unique attack characterized by superb response, unmatched note-to-note definition and a distinct, focused attack. 

These are made in a variety of shapes with a standard thickness of 1.5mm (.060")

They are fully capable of being modified in shape or edge design to suit your particular playing style. 

One note about my picks:  The final finish on these is done with fine (#600) sandpaper.  I do not polish these like glass as they can be difficult to hold and become less functional.  They can easily be polished if desired.

A  Super Bevel:   The most popular design I sell.  Beveled edges allow for super quick alternate picking and accentuation of individual notes.  

B  Triple Tip:   Three distinctly different tips:      a) Tight, beveled point    b) Elongated large radius    c) Standard edge     Give the player the ability to suit the attack of the pick to a particular style.

C  Triangle:   Three identical edges

D  Standard Pick:    The same shape as the traditional picks you've seen for years

E  Bambino:   Same shape as the Standard, but slightly smaller.  (1.1" X .9")  A very comfortable pick for those that don't like holding bulky picks and/or have a more aggressive attack.

F  Mini-Mando:   By popular request, the mandolin pick is a small, comfortable pick with a beveled edge for quick, accurate picking.

ELEPHANT IVORY PICKS   

"You pick, I make"

Because the elephant ivory picks are essentially the same in appearance from piece to piece, you can simply choose the shape and thickness (from 1.25mm to 2mm) you prefer and it will be made to order.  I can also make custom shapes if you have existing picks or designs you'd like copied.

A: $20    B: $20    C: $20            D: $18    E: $18    F: $18 

ELEPHANT IVORY PICKS

FOSSILIZED WALRUS IVORY PICKS

"I make, you pick"

Because no two FWI picks are the same, I make these in the most popular styles and keep the full inventory group-photographed at all times.  Upon request, I can email the pictures and you can choose whichever pick suits you.  It is very difficult, if not impossible to custom make an FWI pick to order as I really do not know what they will look like until they are completed. 

The FWI picks are divided into two pricing groups, regardless of style:

Non-premium dark:  plain-jane, off-white coloration    $20.00

Premium dark:  Unique coloration or figuring    $25.00