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There are
many more examples
of my work in the
"gallery" pages.
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BONE SADDLES |
| Bone is the most common and least expensive aftermarket
natural material used for saddles. It is denser than any of the
synthetic materials and in nearly all cases displays an immediate,
noticeable difference after installation. Most of the bone used
in today’s guitar saddles comes from Chinese cows or ox.
Is a Chinese cow or ox
better than American ones? Probably not, but their bones are cheaper.
Additionally, there is no difference between the final product
whether the bone came from one animal or the other. NO
animals are unnecessarily murdered
just for the purpose of anyone’s guitars. These are simply
the byproducts of the beef industry. Nearly every guitar
in the higher price range ($2000.00 and up) will come with a bone
saddle and nut as the standard material. As I mentioned in
the general information page, rarely if ever,
will you find ANY hand made guitars in the extreme price ranges
that do not come equipped with high quality bone components.
It is unquestionably the standard in that section of the
industry. Bone saddles are a bleached white color, and can occasionally
have some darker “speckling” in the grain. Most saddles can also be
ordered in what is known vintage bone. The only difference
between this and regular bone is the vintage bone is dyed to a
"baby poop" yellow-brown color to give it an aged or vintage
look.
Bone is usually the first step people choose in an aftermarket
saddle, as it is relatively inexpensive, and offers significant
improvement over factory-installed components. Bone increases
clarity and sustain, provides better overtones, and provides a better
high to low end balance. It provides a much more “focused”
high end and punchier low end, and is not at all shrill like
some plastic saddles render the guitar. Additionally, bone will long outlast
the factory installed plastic saddles.
All the saddles I carry are listed on the
pricing/ordering page. If
yours is not listed, I can copy it (in nearly every case) out of
any of these materials if you can send it in.
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(vintage
bone) |
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Click on any of the images to
see an
enlarged view. |
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WEST AFRICAN HARD IVORY
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Sonically,
this material is virtually identical to the walrus ivory.
This material is significantly different than the regular
elephant ivory. Elephant
Ivory is grouped into two distinctly different types
known as “soft ivory” and “hard ivory.” Soft ivory is perfectly
suited for and makes up the vast majority of popular usage for ivory,
including the material most commonly associated with musical
instrument components.
Hard ivory’s other major departure from
soft ivory is its ability to be brilliantly polished to the
point where it feels like cold glass. For this reason, hard
ivory has been a favorite material for tactile products such as
chess pieces or other crafts that are often hand-held.
A note
about your nuts: This is easily the
most common guitar-use for this type of ivory. I cannot
stress strongly enough that this material is undoubtedly the
BEST material I have ever come across for nuts and will
endure years of the wear and tear this component normally
experiences. As with all the nuts I make, they come oversized
with the string slots uncut and need to be installed by your
local luthier or qualified technician, unless you have
experience changing them..
Click on either image to
see an
enlarged view.

SADDLES: As stated above, hard ivory saddles are
sonically identical to fossilized walrus ivory (see description
below). As with any of the ivory saddles, they will long
outlast the factory-installed parts and give your instrument the
quality components it deserves.

BRIDGE PINS: Because of the rarity of hard ivory, as
well as the fact that sonically speaking there is no discernable
difference between the ivories in terms of pin material, all the
elephant pins are made from the soft ivory. I can, however,
make hard ivory pins as a custom order if needed.
HISTORY and COOL INFORMATION:
Hard Ivory came from smaller animals that
lived in Western Africa and are referred to as “Forest
Elephants.” The tusks are smaller, lighter in color and are
measurably more dense than standard elephant tusks. This
form of ivory is extremely rare, quite difficult to find, and
arguably the hardest ivory one can legally obtain.
These forest elephants of Congo
and Liberia had very strict harvesting controls imposed by their
respective governments,
eliminating nearly all of the poaching. This is one reason
for the extreme rarity of this ivory. Unlike
other areas of Africa, they were overlooked by hunters as
potential “trophy elephants” because of the diminutive size of
their tusks. Additionally, if these elephants were legally
hunted for any purpose, one tusk was allowed to be retained by
the permit holder, the other was required to be turned into the
government. For this reason it is nearly impossible to find
these tusks in pairs, which adds to its rarity. Much of
this material I currently have came from tusks which were
exchanged as gifts between U.S. and African dignitaries in the
early 20th century.
As with the soft elephant ivory I offer, ALL the material I
purchase is legally obtained through licensed ivory dealers and
in keeping with all standing laws.
West African Hard Ivory nut on a 1981 Flying V

Reminder.... I cannot
legally ship Elephant Ivory outside of the United States!
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FOSSILIZED WALRUS IVORY SADDLES |
| Fossilized Walrus Ivory (FWI) became increasing
popular due to the controversy of the use of elephant ivory, even
after elephant ivory usage became more popular after 1990. FWI is
the quickest growing new choice for guitar saddles, nuts and pins.
Even larger manufacturers are now offering FWI as an upgrade in a number
of guitar models. Fossilized Walrus is harvested from
the fossilized remains of LONG dead walrus’ in northern Canada
and Alaska. No modern animals are harmed to procure this
material. The fact that FWI is more expensive than other
materials is due only to the fact that it is less abundant.
Unlike elephant ivory, the entire walrus tusk can be used.
The use of different parts of the tusk, along with the fact that
a tusk will develop pigmentation depending on where and how long
it was buried, results in dramatic patterns, and significant
color and pattern differences within each individual piece.
With a density approximately 25% greater than bone, it
is very well suited for guitar saddle and bridge pin
construction. The Walrus is very similar to the bone in its sonic characteristics but
provides better bass response, richer overtones, and sustain.
It is also the brightest sounding of the materials, although not
to be mistaken with simply turning up a treble control!
The walrus continues to render the instrument bright and lively,
but exceptionally focused. The high-end notes, although
aggressive, still ring out with superb clarity and definition.
Walrus has proven to be the definitive choice for the
fingerstyle player, although it is well-suited for use in any
style.
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Standard
Color (shown above) |
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Click on any of the images to
see an
enlarged view. |
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FOSSILIZED WALRUS IVORY, ELEPHANT and BONE
BRIDGE PINS |
| There are a lot of myths
and arguments about the sonic
effectiveness of the pins. Here's the truth.
On some guitars, the pins have produced definable, measurable
and unquestionable acoustic advantages. On others
the results showed negligible difference. Most customers
find "some" difference. In any case, you're putting a
better quality, longer lasting, better looking component in your
guitar. The most commonly found attribute of the pins is
increased sustain. Along the lines of the function of the
saddle, the pins will also help create more definitive overtones
and dynamic response.
The pins can be ordered in any number of inlays including
-Ebony -Abalone - Faux Tortoise & Padauk ...All
of which I regularly carry. I also stock some custom
double-inlays as well.
ELEPHANT PINS: Comes
only in the standard creme
color, the standard coloration of nearly all elephant ivory.
WALRUS PINS: The Walrus pins come
in a multitude of beautiful colors and patterns. I
keep photographs of every set in stock, but do not keep them listed
on this site as they come and go so frequently. Please let
me know, and I will send you any pictures you need.. tell
me what size too, so I send you the right pictures! NOTE:
I send these pics out to many people on a daily basis, so there
is no way I can guarantee that the set you like will still be
available in the time it may take to decide...so grab the set
you like while you can.
BONE BRIDGE PINS:
A lower cost
alternative to their ivory counterpart, although sonically
speaking, they are nearly identical. They are fairly
unassuming in appearance, but still offer a nice sonic
improvement over factory-installed plastic or wood pins.
The pins are sized for the max size found to fit your
guitar. These may require some sanding of a few
thousandths along the stem
to fit them perfectly to your pin holes. Remember, every guitar
is different, and an instruction sheet is enclosed with all pins
to guide you.
BUFFALO HORN BRIDGE PINS:
Buffalo horn pins are more dense than ebony or plastic pins, but
not as dense as bone or ivory. Buffalo horn pins are great
for someone who really does not want to change the appearance of
a guitar normally equipped with ebony pins, in that the buffalo
horn is black. You probably won't find a big sonic
difference, but they will outlast factory installed components,
and look darn nice as well. Contrary to popular belief,
these pins are not "bowling ball" black. They are indeed
black, but have wisps of lighter grain through portions of the
material giving it a very natural look.
Buffalo pins are available in size 1,
2A & 4.2c only.
A note about bridge pin sizing!
Bridge
pins come in billions of sizes. Well, it's not that bad,
but there are quite a few and unfortunately I can't carry that
many sizes in stock. Luckily, many of the larger
manufacturers such as Taylor and Martin use a standard size
bridge pin. Some of the smaller makers do as well.
Some manufacturers use different size pins on the same guitars.
For this reason, I have developed as best I can, a sizing chart
for many manufacturers as shown below. It's not uncommon
to have to make a custom size, and that is something we can do
in nearly every case. You can send a pin in, or better
yet.....if you have access to a dial caliper, a handy chart is
shown under the sizing chart below to show you dimensions I
would need to create them.
Click on any of the images
below
to see an
enlarged view
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Bone Bridge Pins |
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Double Inlay, Ebony/Abalone
Double inlay, Faux Tortoise/Abalone |
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3mm abalone
3mm faux tortoise
3mm ebony |
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4mm abalone
4mm faux tortoise
4mm ebony |
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NEW! Vintage dyed pins
size 1 and 2A
only |
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2mm ebony |
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4mm ebony |
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2mm faux tortoise |
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4mm faux tortoise |
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Elephant Ivory Bridge Pins |
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Walrus Ivory Bridge Pins |
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Buffalo Horn Bridge Pins |
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Here are some helpful sizing &
application charts: |
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BRIDGE PIN SIZES
& DIMENSIONS |
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Size |
Taper angle |
Underskirt diameter |
Slotted? |
Notes |
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1 |
3 Degree |
.210" |
Yes |
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1T |
3 Degree |
.210" |
Yes |
Same as size 1 but with slot cut
through skirt |
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1.3 |
3 Degree |
.203" |
Yes |
Round head design |
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4.3 |
3 Degree |
.203" |
Yes |
Square head design |
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2A |
5 Degree |
.220" |
Yes |
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4.2C |
5 Degree |
.220" |
No |
Sometimes made at .223" depending on
application |
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BRIDGE PIN
APPLICATIONS |
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Guitar |
Pin Size(s) Used |
Notes |
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Alvarez |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
| Avalon |
Size 1 |
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| Blueridge |
Size 1 or 1.3 |
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| Bourgeois |
Size 4.2C |
Normally cut to .223" underskirt to
match manufacturers pin |
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Breedlove |
Size 1.3 |
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Collings after 2002 |
Size 4.2C |
Normally cut to .223" underskirt to
match manufacturers pin |
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Collings before 2002 |
Size 1 |
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| Epiphone |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below. |
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Fender |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
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Gibson |
Size 1, 1.3, or 2A |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below. |
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Goodall |
Size 1 |
Underskirt is normally about .205"
A size 1 can be fit, although sometimes a 1.3 will work fine
depending on guitar |
| Guild |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
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Huss & Dalton |
Size 1.3 |
Occasionally I'll find a size 1 on
these, but not all that often. |
| Ibanez |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
| Kronbauer |
Size 1 |
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Larrivee |
Size 1 |
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Martin after 1994 |
Size 2A |
Will normally require some degree of
fitting, particularly on newer models. Pins stick up from
factory... so do mine. |
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Martin before 1994 |
Size 1 |
On ANY old Martin, it's best to
check first.. many of these guitars have been modified
over the years |
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Maton |
Size 1.3 |
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| Morgan |
Size 1 |
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| Olson |
Size 1 |
Underskirt is normally about .205"
A size 1 can be fit, although sometimes a 1.3 will work fine
depending on guitar |
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Santa Cruz |
Size 1 |
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Seagull |
Size 1 or 1.3 |
Newer models work better with the
size 1. Size 1.3 otherwise |
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Tacoma |
Size 1T |
Same as a size 1, but with the
string slot cut through the skirt |
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Takamine |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
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Taylor |
Size 1 |
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Washburn |
various |
Need measurements as shown in
diagram below |
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What size pin do I need?
How do I measure them? |
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Good Question!
Many guitars, as listed in the above chart use a standard size
pin. In that case, life is good. On the other hand,
many manufacturers use varying sizes of pin, and often
order pins in bulk, simply fitting what they get to the
instrument.
In this case we
need two points of information to get you the correct pin, or
make you a custom size if necessary. To take measurements
accurate enough for a correct fit, you'll really need a dial or
digital caliper for step 2 of this!
1. Is the
pin slotted and does the slot continue through the skirt or stop
below it?

2. Measure
your pin at the following two locations shown in the diagram.
As mentioned above, it is IMPORTANT that these measurements be done
with a dial/digital caliper, or other device that will give you the dimension in decimal
form to the thousandth (.210" for example).
Measure in the two places indicated, the lower measurement
exactly .750" (3/4") below the top. This will give us the size of the pin as well as the ability do
do some math and figure out the taper angle.

Lastly, PLEASE
ensure your measurements are correct ! If in doubt, it's
always best to make them slightly oversized and fit them to the
guitar. |
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NUTS |
| I can manufacture nuts out of any of the abovementioned materials.
In nearly all cases, the effectiveness of the nut in changing the
sonic qualities of your instrument is negligible, although there are certainly a number
of circumstances in which you may want to install a new nut on your
guitar. As I have pointed out in other areas of this website,
it is my strong recommendation to have your nut installed by an experienced
technician or luthier! Installation of a nut requires a certain
degree of experience as well as specialized tools. Even if I construct
an EXACT duplicate of the factory-installed nut on your guitar,
there will still be a greater degree of “finish work” as compared
with the saddle. Nuts come with the final shaping done, but
oversized and with the string slots uncut. |
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IVORY PICKS |
| If you like the TOR-TIS brand of
faux tortoise picks, then you'll love these. They are
modeled after the most popular shapes and features. The biggest
difference between the ivory and the faux tortoise pick is the
ivory offers a more bright and crisp attack whether you are
alternate picking or strumming. One of the things I do
differently with my picks when finishing them is I do not polish
them like glass. These are finished perfectly soft and smooth
with #800 sandpaper and left as is. If you've used these before
you'll know this is the best way to use them as it will stay in
your fingers quite nicely and dramatically reduce dropping them
on stage or in your soundhole. These are very easy to polish if
you so choose and unlike plastic picks, the bevels or any other
part of the pick can be sanded and modified to suit your taste
or playing style.
I can custom make these to any thickness between 1.25 mm and 2mm
although the standard size is 1.5mm
I also make standard pick sizes as well as
"mini" versions and can even copy your
favorite pick configuration. Because of the limits
of ivory, the smallest thickness of pick I really like to make,
where I know it will last a lifetime is 1.25 mm.
These picks are all made from elephant ivory. On some
occasions I'm able to get fossilized walrus ivory material as
well...please call for availability of FWI picks.
Super Bevel:
Beveled edged allow for super quick
alternate picking and accentuation of individual notes.
Triple Tip:
Three distinctly different tips:
A) Tight, beveled point B) Elongated large
radius C) Medium radius
Give the player the ability to suit the attack of the pick to a
particular style.
Three Way:
Three identical beveled edges
Standard Pick: The same shape as the
traditional picks you've seen for years
Bambino: Same shape as
the standard, but measuring aprox. 1.1" X .9"
A very comfortable pick for those that don't like holding bulky
picks and/or have a more aggressive attack.
Reminder.... I cannot legally ship Elephant Ivory outside of the
United States! |
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Click on the images to
see an
enlarged view. |
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Super Bevel |
Triple Tip |
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Bambino Mini & Standard Pick |
Three Way |
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