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1.  What do these parts do for the sound of my guitar?
Being a more dense material than factory-installed components, they serve as a much more efficient transmitter of the energy of the string to the top of the guitar, causing increased sustain and clarity, overtones, better separation and definition of the individual strings during strummed chords, and in many cases, increased projection.  The saddle plays the biggest part, followed by the bridge pins.  The nut also plays a role in this regard, but only to a very minimal degree.

2.  Are saddles easy to install?
YES! They take more patience than they do mechanical aptitude. If you can use a sheet of sandpaper, you can install a saddle. There are certain things that I would highly recommend the skilled hands of a luthier for.  However, installing a saddle is a very “do-able” do-it-yourself job.

3.  How do I know what to do after I receive my saddle?
All my saddles and pins are complete with a detailed instruction sheet, which will guide you through the entire process.  I'll gladly offer any tech support, and am always available by phone or email if you have any questions.

4.  I know I cannot do this myself.  Can you make one that is a perfect “drop-in” fit for my guitar?
Unfortunately I do not make “drop-in” perfect-fit saddles right out of the package.   Some people sell saddles that are advertised to be a perfect fit right out of the box.  I prefer not to do business this way since all guitars are different, even within the same model line, and I cannot  guarantee that it will fit absolutely perfect without having the guitar in hand for final fitting, plus I have no way of knowing how well your original saddle fit.   For this reason I machine ALL my saddles SLIGHTLY larger and allow the user to do the fitting to his/her guitar.  If you are uncomfortable doing it, check with your local guitar tech or luthier.  They should be able to do this for you for a nominal fee.   

5.  I'd rather have a luthier do this but I do not have one nearby...
All my repair work is now done by Master Luthier Ron Griffin of Griffin Guitars.  I have customers worldwide sending guitars to me for a wide variety of issues, so if you're willing to ship it, I guarantee you will be pleased with the quality of his work.  I hand-carry every guitar to Ron...or you can ship it directly to him if you prefer.  Either way, we are personally committed to giving your instrument the quality care it deserves.  Feel free to contact me if you have any questions, and feel free to contact Ron as well!  www.griffinguitars.com    or by phone at: (912) 285-8053.

6.  My guitar is not listed on your website. Can I still get a saddle?
Yes. If I do not have your particular template, I will need your old saddle and I will construct a duplicate.   I understand that this can be extremely inconvenient, so your order will be given full priority, and in almost every case, be shipped out to you the day after your old saddle is received. Your old saddle will also be returned in the condition it was received. If you send it in, PLEASE PUT IT IN A PADDED ENVELOPE and include a note indicating what you want done as well as contact information.  Even on the copies, I still oversize them slightly and it will still have to undergo final fitting, although I make these a lot closer than my standard saddles, so the total amount of work will be less.

7.  What is your return policy?
Unfortunately I cannot accept returns on any product that has undergone fitting, sanding, modification or installation. If it appears that something was constructed improperly, return the product, and I will offer a refund, or replacement.  On any custom ordered products where you provide dimensions the same applies unless the dimensions end up being incorrect.  "Measure twice, cut once," says Home Depot.

8.  I've heard that natural material saddles such as bone and ivory can be inconsistent and have dead spots.  Is this true?
Only if your saddle is constructed from inferior quality materials.  All the materials I use are the best available. Period.  I do not have consistency problems with any of the materials I use or  products I sell.  Every blank that ends up as a completed saddle, nut or pin is thoroughly inspected  before it becomes your finished product. 

9.  What's up with the claims the "TUSQ is better than bone" as far as saddle materials go.  The people who make it seem to be pretty convinced, and even have sound files to prove it!   Plus, some large manufacturers use it for their standard material.
1.  The big manufacturers use it simply because it is the most cost effective solution when you are making 50,000 +  guitars per year. 

2.  Here's a good test.  Check around with the most elite luthiers you can find...  the ones that make 8, 10, 12, 15 thousand dollar (or more)  hand-built instruments.  You'll be hard pressed to find even one that does not use bone as the standard material for their nuts and saddles.  Why?  Because it's the best overall material and has been THE industry standard on stringed instruments for over a century.  It's also no surprise that most of these builders also offer ivory components as optional upgrades.   I love their parts on my PRS electric, but I'm just not a fan of plastic on any acoustic guitar.

10.  I've heard walrus ivory saddles have a tendency to warp in the guitar.  Is this true?
Absolutely not.  Drive both of your car's passenger side tires on a long 2 X 6 piece of wood and see how much the wood moves, or warps to the point it will disturb the car.  That is equivalent to the pressure your guitar strings put on the saddle...not to mention the saddle is also enclosed in a slot.  Neither the piece of wood nor the saddle are going anywhere.  Installed properly, it is physically IMPOSSIBLE for this material to warp with any degree of strength that would be even remotely close to harming your guitar. 

11.  Do you make guitar nuts as well?
Yes I do.  I strongly recommend that if you want to simply order one from me, that you have a qualified technician or luthier install it!  Why? It is a much more complicated job requiring stricter tolerances and MUCH less room for error than a saddle installation. (See the general information section) Plus, the string slots need to be cut and the slot on the headstock needs to be groomed, all requiring a specialized set of tools to accomplish. Having said this, I will  be glad to make a nut for your instrument, but please understand that there will be a bit more work in finishing and dressing the nut for your particular guitar.  For nut installation I strongly suggest having your local luthier do the installation.

12.  Do you sell saddle and nut blanks?
Due to overwhelming numbers of requests, Yes.  …Prices are now listed in the “ordering” section.

13.  I got my saddle and it already fits in the bridge slot with a lot of play. It’s too small! What’s up?
All bridge slots are different. I machine my saddles as close as possible on the “larger” side to minimize the amount of work you have to do. Lets say for example, your bridge slot is machined larger than normal, or is slightly worn or expanded from age. There exists a remote possibility your saddle will be too small. If this is the case, return the saddle and I will machine you one of larger dimensions.

14.  How do you ship your products?  How long does it take?
Everything goes out by USPS Priority mail, unless some other method is specifically requested.  The USPS advertises three to four WORKING days for Priority mail.  Sometimes it’s shorter, sometimes longer.    Overseas packages ship via USPS Global Priority mail or Global Express if requested.

15.  Do you sell to New York Yankees fans?
As long as you don't admit to it.  In the event you do, a 375% surcharge will apply.  


Questions Call: (912) 882-1321 -- Ask for Bob!