1. What
do these parts do for the sound of my guitar? Being a
more dense material than factory-installed components, they serve as a much
more efficient transmitter of the energy of the string to the top of the
guitar, causing increased sustain and clarity, overtones, better separation
and definition of the individual strings during strummed chords, and in
many cases, increased projection. The saddle plays the biggest part,
followed by the bridge pins. The nut also plays a role in this regard,
but only to a very minimal degree.
2. Are saddles easy to install?
YES! They take more patience than they do mechanical aptitude. If you can
use a sheet of sandpaper, you can install a saddle. There are certain things
that I would highly recommend the skilled hands of a luthier for.
However, installing a saddle is a very “do-able” do-it-yourself job.
3. How
do I know what to do after I receive my saddle? All my
saddles and pins are complete with a detailed instruction sheet, which will
guide you through the entire process. I'll gladly offer any tech support,
and am always available by phone or email if you have any questions.
4.
I know I cannot do this myself. Can you make one that is a perfect
“drop-in” fit for my guitar?
Unfortunately I do
not make “drop-in” perfect-fit saddles right out
of the package. Some people sell saddles that
are advertised to be a perfect fit right out of the box. I prefer
not to do business this way since all guitars are different, even within
the same model line, and I cannot guarantee that it will fit absolutely
perfect without having the guitar in hand for final fitting, plus I have
no way of knowing how well your original saddle fit. For this
reason I machine ALL my saddles SLIGHTLY larger and allow
the user to do the fitting to his/her guitar. If you are uncomfortable
doing it, check with your local guitar tech or luthier. They should
be able to do this for you for a nominal fee.
5.
I'd rather have a luthier do this but I do not have one nearby...
All my repair work is now done by Master Luthier Ron Griffin of Griffin
Guitars. I have customers worldwide sending guitars to me for a wide
variety of issues, so if you're willing to ship it, I guarantee you will
be pleased with the quality of his work. I hand-carry every guitar
to Ron...or you can ship it directly to him if you prefer. Either
way, we are personally committed to giving your instrument the quality care
it deserves. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions, and
feel free to contact Ron as well!
www.griffinguitars.com
or by phone at: (912) 285-8053.
6.
My guitar is not listed on your website. Can I still get a saddle?
Yes. If I do not have your particular template, I will need your old saddle
and I will construct a duplicate. I understand that this can
be extremely inconvenient, so your order will be given full priority, and
in almost every case, be shipped out to you the day after your old saddle
is received. Your old saddle will also be returned in the condition it was
received. If you send it in, PLEASE PUT IT IN A PADDED ENVELOPE and
include a note indicating what you want done as well as contact information.
Even on the copies, I still oversize them slightly
and it will still have to undergo final fitting, although I make
these a lot closer than my standard saddles, so the total amount of work
will be less.
7.
What is your return policy? Unfortunately I cannot accept
returns on any product that has undergone fitting, sanding, modification
or installation. If it appears that something was constructed improperly,
return the product, and I will offer a refund, or replacement. On
any custom ordered products where you provide dimensions the same applies
unless the dimensions end up being incorrect. "Measure twice, cut
once," says Home Depot.
8.
I've heard that natural material saddles such as bone and ivory can be inconsistent
and have dead spots. Is this true? Only
if your saddle is constructed from inferior quality materials. All
the materials I use are the best available. Period. I do not
have consistency problems with any of the materials I use or products
I sell. Every blank that ends up as a completed saddle, nut or pin
is thoroughly inspected before it becomes your finished product.
9.
What's up with the claims the "TUSQ is better than bone" as far as saddle
materials go. The people who make it seem to be pretty convinced,
and even have sound files to prove it! Plus, some large manufacturers
use it for their standard material. 1. The big
manufacturers use it simply because it is the most cost effective solution
when you are making 50,000 + guitars per year.
2. Here's a good test. Check around
with the most elite luthiers you can find... the ones that make 8,
10, 12, 15 thousand dollar (or more) hand-built instruments.
You'll be hard pressed to find even one that does not use bone as the standard
material for their nuts and saddles. Why? Because it's the best
overall material and has been THE industry standard on stringed instruments
for over a century. It's also no surprise that most of these builders
also offer ivory components as optional upgrades. I love their
parts on my PRS electric, but I'm just not a fan of plastic on any acoustic
guitar.
10.
I've heard fossil walrus ivory saddles have a tendency to warp in the guitar.
Is this true? Absolutely not. Drive both of your
car's passenger side tires on a long 2 X 6 piece of wood and see how much
the wood moves, or warps to the point it will disturb the car. That
is equivalent to the pressure your guitar strings put on the saddle...not
to mention the saddle is also enclosed in a slot. Neither the piece
of wood nor the saddle are going anywhere. Installed properly, it
is physically IMPOSSIBLE for this material to warp with any degree of strength
that would be even remotely close to harming your guitar.
11.
Do you make guitar nuts as well? Yes I do. I strongly
recommend that if you want to simply order one from me, that you have a
qualified technician or luthier install it! Why? It is a much more
complicated job requiring stricter tolerances and MUCH less room for error
than a saddle installation. (See the general information section) Plus,
the string slots need to be cut and the slot on the headstock needs to be
groomed, all requiring a specialized set of tools to accomplish. Having
said this, I will be glad to make a nut for your instrument, but please
understand that there will be a bit more work in finishing and dressing
the nut for your particular guitar. For nut installation I strongly
suggest having your local luthier do the installation.
12.
Do you sell saddle and nut blanks? Due to overwhelming
numbers of requests, Yes. …Prices are now listed in the “ordering”
section.
13.
I got my saddle and it already fits in the bridge slot with a lot of play.
It’s too small! What’s up? All bridge slots are different.
I machine my saddles as close as possible on the “larger” side to minimize
the amount of work you have to do. Lets say for example, your bridge slot
is machined larger than normal, or is slightly worn or expanded from age.
There exists a remote possibility your saddle will be too small. If this
is the case, return the saddle and I will machine you one of larger dimensions.
14.
How do you ship your products? How long does it take?
Everything goes out by USPS Priority mail, unless some other method is specifically
requested. The USPS advertises three to four WORKING
days for Priority mail. Sometimes it’s shorter, sometimes longer.
Overseas packages ship via USPS Global Priority mail or Global Express if
requested.
15.
Do you sell to New York Yankees fans? As long as you
don't admit to it. In the event you do, a 375% surcharge will apply.
  
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